Arriving in Panama I reached my 50th country. While I certainly don't intend to stop now, as we farewell Central America I thought this would be a good time to reflect on a few things we've learnt over the last 3 months journeying through this beautiful part of the world. 

They never seem to cry on buses, complain when they are waiting in the hot sun and always seem to be willing to help out (even if it is cos they want a tip sometimes!)

Pollo Campero and its copycats proliferate more than Dunken Doughnuts in New York City!

Central American horror stories that give mums nightmares abound, but bad news sells and we have met fewer people who have had bad things happen to them than the scaremongering leads you to believe. People, in general, are good; the majority of the locals we have met are friendly and more than willing to help us out. Be smart about it and you are unlikely to meet any problems

Litter proliferates along most main roads and at the beaches (the exception being in Costa Rica). Everywhere we look plastic bottles and bags lay to waste. The fact that soft drinks in Central America have more sugar in them than in other countries is surely contributing to the traditionally thin peoples becoming 'gordo' (although the fried chicken doesn't help either!). Tiendas (shops) across the countries are painted the multinational corporations colours but what legacy are they really leaving?

Who'dve thought it - but at $1 for a bag of 6 they soon lose their novelty. Choconanas on the other hand, could definitely still devour those!

Outside of Mexico you'll be hard pressed to find a freshly squeezed, non pasturised, orange juice. For countries with ideal citrus growing conditions it baffles me. 

With western food's flashy marketing and increasing incomes people are moving away from traditional food staples. Although, when faced with rice and beans 3 times a day for 2 weeks it starting looking pretty damn good to us too. 

In Mexico a banana is a platano, a plantain is a plantain, but when you cross into Guatemala a plantain is a platano and a banana is a banano. Kind of important as one you can eat raw and the other one may make you really sick!

Apart from the dreary reality of CNN or BBC it seems the only thing Central Americans think us gringos like to watch, as its the only other choice in english, is CSI

Sometimes its better not to look at the tire tread, and the number of people you can fit on public transport is not defined by the number of seats in the vehice - silly westeners!

Ok, so outside of Cuba mojitos arent actually that easy to find, or that cheap to buy, but every country in Central America has its own brand of rum and the aged varieties at prices which mean we will need a detox when we get home (and have very expensive taste in future)

Lush tropical rainforests, turquoise blue waters, an abundance of wildlife and friendly people. Sure some places have their problems but so do western countries. I would return in a heartbeat, and encourage everyone else to come here 

Well, it might. For a few days. But if you're smart and eat where the locals eat you'll get to sample some amazing local delacacies and be nice to your wallet at the same time. So, pull up a stool, lean on the wall and tantalise your tastebuds

Buses run on island time (unless you're late), the scary man behind you in the alley is really a gentleman making sure you get home safe and the friendly stranger is a 'jinetaro' whose in it for the money you are going to make him. Nothing may be as it seems but opening yourself up to it and relaxing is what makes the journey memorable and gives you those great 'post travel' stories. 

At first it is all infuriating but you soon get drawn into the laid back pace of life and I wonder how we will deal with transitioning back into the hustle and bustle of the western world. Still, a couple of months before we have to think about that...

Adios Central America - Muchas Gracias por todos!

Next stop: Colombia

Arriving into Panama I hit my 50th country, well ahead of my deadline of my 50th birthday! But I certainly dont intend to stop now and look forward to the countries ahead of us on our journey home. 

We organised a shuttle to take us from Puerto Viejo to Bocas del Toro in Panama. The border crossing on the Carribean coast between the two countries is infamous for its rotting wooden bridge sitting high above the river that you must walk across. Its a little less daunting these days however now that there is a much sturdier steel and concrete construction for the trucks to use beside it. Still, we had to watch where we were stepping, lest we plunge through for an unplanned swim. 

We had expected to have to pay $3, or maybe $6, USD to enter Costa Rica, but when we went through we werent asked for anything - yay! We had noticed a sign saying that officials at this border do not collect currency but it was in really bad spanglish so we figured maybe that was it, but one of the girls in the group told me later she had had to pay. Oh well, luck was on our side for a change!

After our driver practiced his rally skills between the border and Almirante we hopped onto a local speed boat to head out to the Island archipelago of Bocas del Toro. 

Bocas has become a firm favourite on the tourist circuit in Panama and its easy to see why. Bocas' laid-back Caribbean vibe is enhanced by the archipelago’s spectacular natural setting. The islands are covered in dense jungles of vine tangles and forest palms that open up to pristine beaches fringed by reeds and mangroves. Beneath the water, an extensive coral reef ecosystem supports countless species of tropical fish (although diving visibility is poor), while simultaneously providing some seriously gnarly surf breaks (including one responsible for breaking our hostel owners back!). We had googled a place to stay before leaving Puerto Viejo and had decided on Pukalani Hostel. It was a few minutes out of town and seemed a little more chilled out than the party hostels in the centre which was what we were after. The travel gods had a different plan for us it seems though. Hopping in the free shuttle the owner, Juan, informed us that once a month for the full moon he does a party at the hostel which most of the island attends and that we were in luck it was tonight! Well, time to celebrate hitting 50! 

Pukalani has a beautiful set up with rooms all looking out to the ocean and overlooking the pool for geusts to use and a pagoda over the water with a bar and pool table to hang out. In proper spanish style the party didnt get into full swing until about midnight, but the DJ was set up, fire artists were on display and everyone was having a really good time. An older american 'swinger' couple obviously hoped they could entice some of the younger clientele to join them in some extra curricular activities as they got butt naked and wandered around chatting to everyone, which provided a good amount of entertainment! no photos though - sorry to disapoint! haha.

We met a really lovely American couple called Brandi and Chris who haddn't really done the 'hostel/backpacking' thing before and had initially planned to spend 19 days chilling in Bocas but all the talk of the amazing things we, and others at the hostel, had seen and done saw them change their plans and decide to go exploring. I hope they have a good time!

We had intended to do a few day trips out to the other beaches and islands surrounding Isla Colon (the main Island), but our attempts were thwarted by the weather (rainy season seems to have finally set in) and the fact that I developed quite a bad pain in my back/side. Ty managed to go out in the boat with Juan one day and snorkel off a wreck and go kayaking around the bay another day so at least he managed to see a few sites. 

Next stop: Panama City and its infamous canal